Picán, Oakland CA

Entering an opulent room with high ceilings and live jazz played on a baby grand piano, you hope that the food matches the atmosphere.  When at least two of the senses are intrigued, the others want to play along.  The food on the menu at Picán has flavors that are on par with the visuals and sounds of the restaurant, so tonight our palates were not let down by the soul food with a touch of California heart.

cornbread and honey butter

Instead of rolls or a sliced loaf of bread, cornbread is offered.  It served well through our meal to sop up the various sauces and dribbles.  With honey butter, it could easily be dessert on its own.

southern mule

Picán has a full bar and is known for boasting a broad bevy of bourbon.  Tonight, though, we weren’t inclined to drink alcohol, so our server recommended a non-alcoholic Southern Mule.  Akin to a juice cocktail, this was a mix of ginger beer, lemon juice, and pineapple juice.  It was tangy and only mildly sweet, and the flavor combination of citrus with ginger was very refreshing.

alligator fritto misto

Zach has had alligator only a few times in his life, and this was his favorite version.  August has had her fair share of alligator, and had to agree with him.  Fresh fried alligator bites were served over a smear of caper and fennel tartar sauce.  The alligator was tender with a nice crunchy breading and great seasoning, and the tartar sauce’s particular herb mix was an excellent complement.  On first taste it seemed like a typical tartar sauce, but with the alligator, there was no fooling that there was something special about it.  Laid over the top were fried slices of okra, peppers, lemon, and mint leafs.  The okra, when fried, turned sweet and lost all sliminess, yet that slime was not replaced with grease; this was not an oily dish.  With a medium spicy bite from the peppers, Zach says that “everything was seasoned really well and balanced.”

sea island she-crab soup

The soup we ordered was unexpectedly split for us, so what you see here is a mini serving.  To be honest, though, the she-crab soup was so rich, that it was the ideal amount to be split like this.  Creamy and flavorful like a bisque with an olive oil floater (not traditional dry sherry), the crab taste was briny and permeated the soup.  The tablespoon-sized amount of crab meat was tender and delicate, while a kick of cayenne made this warm but not too spicy.  Tiny, savory, cornbread madeleines acted as garnish and texture variance, with just a little bit of crunch.

molasses braised pork shank

August ordered the fork-tender pork shank.  It had a nice crust from searing, with a great caramelized flavor from the Maillard reaction.  The demi-glace was savory and light with rich pork and wine flavors and the faintest hint of rosemary.  Sprinkled over the top was a gremolata of pecans, bringing an earthy nuttiness to this sumptuous plate.

tupelo honey yams with sorghum marshmallow

The pork shank was served with yams as a side.  These were cooked just right with the slighted bit of give remaining, not cooked to mush like we’re so accustomed to during the winter holidays.  Like the holidays, though, these had a nice array of spices that were reminiscent of the scents of Thanksgiving dinner.  The sorghum marshmallow, while new to us, was nonetheless tasty as a sweet highlight for the yams.

smoked brisket-braised collards

Zach’s entree also came with a preset side, but we needed some roughage for our health’s sake so we ordered these collard greens with bits of smoked brisket.  Like the yams, these were not cooked to oblivion so there was some texture left.  Savory and seasoned with just enough salt, the fact that these weren’t overcooked meant that the vague flavor of raw collards was still there, and was even highlighted by the seasoning.  All too often collard greens come out of a can or are fresh but simply overcooked, so we relished in the freshness here offset by the smoky meat.

southern fried chicken with classic smoked gouda mac ‘n cheese

Zach’s chicken had a crispy breading that was well seasoned, encasing meat that was super flavorful.  Brining really does make a difference for chicken, not just turkey on Thanksgiving (if you’d like to learn how to brine chicken, follow this recipe).  The drumstick and breast section with rib meat turned out juicy, moist, and not at all greasy.  The mac ‘n cheese was creamy and gooey with loads of smoked Gouda cheese.  The al dente noodles were nearly swimming in the rich sauce.  This is not your typical mac ‘n cheese, but it’s comforting all the same.

Many menu items are identified as vegetarian, vegan, and/or gluten-free, so this is a wonderful place to please any eaters.  Server assistant José did a great job at keeping an eye on all the patrons in his section, and we thank him sincerely for his attentiveness.  All the tables in our area were visibly happy with their service, and clearly their food.

Souls Restaurant, Oakland CA

On a corner of MacArthur Blvd in a neighborhood you might think twice about visiting normally, sits Souls Restaurant with a pleasant façade and an elegant sign.  We had driven by it many times, thinking more than twice, but today we wanted some hearty soul food and this came up in our online searching.  Even in an area of desperation, food can create a center of peace.  At 3:something in the afternoon for a late lunch/early dinner, many diners were thoroughly enjoying themselves over good food; we saw lots of families, many generations, and a large party celebrating a birthday.

sweet tea

corn bread

While waiting for our entrees we sipped our drinks and munched on corn bread.  August tried the sweet tea and, unlike every other commercial sweet tea she’s tried, it actually tasted like tea!  Not just a sugary syrup with tea flavor, this was genuine, housemade sweet tea.  The icing on the cake is that refills are free.  Just as impressive were the housemade corn bread muffins, with a light sweetness and good butteryness.  One thing appreciated in particular was the texture: soft and light, with a delicate crumble, and a hint of crunch from the corn meal (not corn flour like many places use nowadays.  Corn flour yields a product more like cake than bread.). 

fried chicken with three sides

Zach got three pieces of fried chicken.  The selection of white and dark meats was breaded before fried, giving the skin a crispy and flaky crust, well seasoned and savory.  The meat inside was juicy and succulent, and easily pulled apart with a fork; the juice was visible upon first go.  Not everyone in the restaurant was eating this plate, but many patrons were spotted about the dining room with this in front of them, proving that it’s a popular item.  It comes with a choice of three sides, and Zach wanted to go as Southern as possible: red beans and rice, macaroni and cheese, and “greens” (of the collard nature).  Sure, the first was just beans and rice, but the red beans were very, very rich in flavor, the rice was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was almost gravy-like and a good complement over the rice.  For being a lighter calorie side, it’s very hearty and satisfying.  The baked mac and cheese was traditional, meaning ooey and gooey with shredded cheese, as opposed to the non-baked version with a runnier cheese sauce.  What topped it off, no pun intended, was the delicious golden-brown cheese layer on top, which Zach says was hard not to pull of and eat by itself.  It’s possible to overcook greens so that they break down, but these were well done, with no bitterness or green flavor, and great seasoning and salting (ha ha!).

turkey wings and dressing dinner with two sides

The Saturday dinner special and recommendation from our wonderful server was turkey wings and dressing.  August’s turkey was moist and plentiful, just like Zach’s chicken, so you know lots of leftover bones will be stripped tonight for Bea the Dog; we strip the bones to give her the meat, because you should never give your dog cooked poultry bones!  August ate what she could, but it was hard with all that was on the plate.  The dressing was somewhat piquant under the tender turkey.  Because this dinner already comes with dressing (it’s stuffing if it has actually been stuffed in the turkey), two sides can be chosen.  August got tasty string beans and surprising yams.  We say surprising because these were unexpectedly spiced with clove and nutmeg, adding a bit of boldness.  To try further variety, we also ordered two more sides to try the mashed potatoes and gravy, and cole slaw.  The housemade potatoes that fit on August’s plate were thick and perfectly salted, and the gravy provided another rich flavor layer. 

the cole slaw didn’t fit comfortably in the shot with any other dish, so it’s on its own

Little lonely cole slaw didn’t have room on either of the plates, and it looked awkward trying to stick it in the shot with an entree, so one of August’s favorite things got its own spotlight.  Crispy, refreshing, and light, this was everything a classic cole slaw should be.  It wasn’t overly sweet, and the cabbage wasn’t sitting in a lot of watery dressing, so it was fresh and had a good zing to it.

peach cobbler

How can you leave a soul food restaurant, even if you’re stuffed, without trying a dessert?  It’s like turning down your grandmother when she’s cooked so hard for you.  If you like a simple, fruity dessert to satisfy your sweet tooth, this is the cobbler for you.

Souls Restaurant was conceived to be a center of goodness within the desolation.  Building was funded through the donations of the members of Acts Full Gospel Church, and that spirit of unity and collaboration vibrates within the establishment.  Quality abounds, from the ambiance to the customer service.  Don’t be scared by the surroundings, you will be welcomed and embraced here.

Fried Chicken and Biscuits with Sriracha Mayo, Baked Mac and Cheese, and Collard Greens

Today was Zach’s oldest brother Roger’s birthday, and we invited him and Zach’s younger brother Will over for dinner to celebrate.  Zach went all out, as he usually does when it’s a celebratory meal for someone special.  Roger got the Southern treatment with moist fried chicken that had an incredible crunchy crust, buttery biscuits with a zingy sauce, heavenly mac and cheese, and savory collard greens.

• For the fried chicken brine process:

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

8 cups of water

1/2 cup of brown sugar

1/2 cup of salt

1/2 of one lemon

1/2 of one white onion

5 garlic cloves

1 tbs. of ground cayenne pepper

2 bay leafs

Bring all brine ingredients (except the chicken) to a boil, then let cool completely.  Soak chicken breasts in brine for 12 hours.

To fry:

1 gallon of canola or peanut oil (Chef Zach used peanut oil)

4 brined chicken breasts

3 cups of all-purpose flour

2 cups of buttermilk

1 tbs. of salt

2 tsp. of ground cayenne pepper

1 tsp. of garlic powder

Preheat oil in a deep fryer at 340 degrees F.  Combine flour, salt, cayenne pepper, and garlic powder and mix thoroughly.  Put buttermilk in a shallow bowl.

flour, buttermilk, flour

Drain the brined chicken.  Dredge the breasts in flour, shake off excess, dip in buttermilk, drip off excess, and dredge once more in flour.  Gently place in the deep fryer for 8 minutes for breasts about 1″ thick.  When taken out of the deep fryer, place on a towel or paper towel to allow excess oil to drip off.

• For the baked mac and cheese:

1 lb. of pasta, your choice but not long noodles like spaghetti or linguini; Chef Zach used cavatappi

2 1/2 cups of whole milk

8 oz. of shredded medium cheddar cheese

8 oz. of shredded muenster cheese

8 oz. of shredded smoked Gouda cheese

4 oz. of shredded Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup of cream

1/2 cup of panko bread crumbs

5 tbs. of all-purpose flour

5 tbs. of salted butter

1 1/2 tsp. of onion powder

1/2 tsp. of ground cayenne pepper

1/4 tsp. of dried mustard

1/4 tsp. of ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Spray a baking dish with non-stick cooking spray.  Mix all the shredded cheeses in a large bowl or a platter and set aside.  Boil a large pot of lightly salted water.

Melt butter in a medium size saucepan on medium heat.  Little by little, whisk in the flour until smooth and slightly bubbly; cook until lightly golden brown, stirring constantly.  Pouring a thin stream, whisk in the milk and cream.

nappe

Stir in the onion powder, cayenne pepper, mustard, and nutmeg.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 3 minutes until reaching nappe (the point when the liquid is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon).  Stir frequently.

with cheese (and zach is too fast for the camera)

Remove from heat and whisk in about 2 cups of the shredded cheese until smooth.

Once the water is boiling in the large pot, add the pasta and cook so that it’s a little tougher than al dente; the kind that Chef Zach got said to cook for 12 minutes, so he did for 10 minutes.  Drain, then return to the large pot.  Stir in the cheese sauce until all pasta is coated.

Pour half of the pasta mixture into the sprayed baking dish.  Layer a generous amount of the shredded cheese, then cover with the rest of the pasta mixture and sprinkle on the last of the cheese.

Shake about 1/2 cup of panko bread crumbs over the top.

Bake for 35 minutes until the panko crumbs are slightly browned and the cheese is bubbly.  Cool a bit before serving and don’t take a premature bite, or else molten cheese sauce will burn holes in your mouth.

• For the collard greens:

2 bunches of collard greens

2 quarts of low-sodium chicken stock

1 quart of water

1/2 lb. of smoked ham hock

5 crushed garlic cloves

1 tbs. of sriracha sauce

1 tsp. of crushed black pepper

In a large pot over high heat. bring chicken stock and water to a boil with the ham hock, garlic, and pepper.  Reduce heat to medium and cook for 45 minutes.

Thoroughly wash the collard greens and strip the leafs from the stalks.

Stack the stripped leafs about 8 or so at a time, roll up, and slice into 1/2″ to 1″ widths.  Put sliced greens in the stock pot and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.  When ready to serve, spoon out with a slotted spoon.

• For the biscuits:

3 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups of whole milk

14 tbs. of chilled butter cut up in small chunks

5 tsp. of baking powder

2 tsp. of coarse salt

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.  Line or butter the bottom of a baking sheet.  Thoroughly whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl.

With a fork or two table knives, mash the butter and flour mixture until it has a coarse meal appearance.

Slowly add milk while stirring with a fork to reach desired consistency.  For softer biscuits, use more milk and drop 2 tbs. of dough onto the lined baking sheet.  For firmer biscuits, do what Chef Zach did:

Put the dough on a lightly floured surface and gently knead only enough to bring the dough together. Roll the dough to about 1″ thick.

Using a biscuit cutter, a sturdy glass, a cookie cutter, or even just a knife, cut however many biscuits you like.  Chef Zach admits that he was being wasteful – he could have made more biscuits, but he wanted 4 large ones.  The scraps can easily be turned into a treat with melted butter, sugar, and cinnamon to coat and bake for 18 minutes at 450 degrees F.

Place the biscuits on the lined baking sheet.  Bake for 13-15 minutes until golden brown.  Serve warm.

• For the sriracha mayonnaise:

1/2 cup of mayonnaise

1 tbs. of sriracha sauce

Stir until evenly blended.