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Ceviche and Truffled Chips

This Cinco de Mayo we stayed at home instead of celebrating the 151st anniversary of the Battle of Puebla in public with lots of reveling Oakland denizens.  We didn’t go all out to do a party or anything, but instead Zach put a gourmet twist on two Central American standards for a snack lunch.  We try to follow sustainable seafood guidelines, so the ingredients used were with thought towards the impact on the environment.

ceviche and truffled chips

ceviche and truffled chips

Makes enough for 4-6

• For the chips:

3 liters of peanut oil for frying

18 corn tortillas, white or yellow, sliced into sixths

Truffle salt for seasoning to taste, but you’ll probably use at least 1 tbs.

Heat oil to 370 degrees F in a deep fryer (it’s possible to fry in a cast iron pan or a dutch oven, but then you’ll have to monitor the temperature with a candy thermometer).  Cut the tortillas in half, then slice each half into thirds, creating evenly-sized triangles.

Place one fourth of all the triangles in the fryer at a time so as to make small, thoroughly cooked batches.  Cook for about 4-5 minutes but stir a couple times with a skimmer.

If you have a sturdy fry basket, shake and/or tap it to knock off any excess oil, and let drip for about 20 seconds before tossing the chips in a stainless steel bowl with truffle salt.  Transfer to another bowl lined with paper or cloth towels (to be green) to soak up the remaining oil.  Chips will stay good in a sealed sandwich bag for days!

• For the ceviche (all local ingredients except the Hawaiian pineapple):

1/2 lb. of line-caught Californian halibut

1/2 lb. of line-caught Pacific salmon

1 cup of pineapple

3/4 cup of freshly squeezed lime juice

1/2 cup of Roma tomatoes

1 extra large jalapeño pepper

1 shallot

1/4 cup of minced cilantro

Salt to taste

Cube the fish 1/4″ pieces, and soak in lime juice for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

Dice the pineapple and tomatoes in the same size as the fish, first removing the tomato seeds.  Remove the seeds from the jalapeño, and cut into 1/8″ pieces.  Finely mince the shallot and cilantro like the jalapeño.

After the fish has finished soaking, drain with a strainer and discard the lime juice, shaking off any excess juice.

Toss all ingredients together, tasting for desired saltiness, and serve cold in Arakawa Pottery.

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Yankee Pier, Lafayette CA

“Sustainability” is greater than just a buzzword anymore.  For some it’s becoming a way of thinking, a way of living.  At Yankee Pier, “sustainability” drives the cooking.  Yankee Pier follows the West Coast Sustainable Seafood Guide put out by the Seafood Watch Program as part of the Monterey Bay Aquarium, to serve fish that has been “caught or farmed using environmentally friendly practices.”

ceviche with the day's catch

ceviche with the day’s catch

Our first taste of sustainable fish was in this tangy ceviche.  Every day the ceviche might be a little different from the next, since they use the daily fishes to make it.  The only guarantee is that they never use catfish, sole, or scallops.  Lots of cilantro give it a clean earthy taste, the peppers and onion make it a little crunchy and mildly spicy, and the pineapple provides a refreshing sweetness.  Creamy ripe avocado and house made chips put it over the top.

clam chowder

clam chowder

Zach ordered the Twilight Menu, which is a very reasonable prix fixe available Monday through Thursday from 4-6 pm.  He started with a cup of clam chowder.  Since we went to the cook off this last weekend we got spoiled with clam chowder, and now we can judge that this one from Yankee Pier could have competed with the best on Saturday!  It had a rich and creamy broth, with rich clam flavor and mild bacon flavor.  The clam chunks were tender and plentiful.

fish & chips

fish & chips

For his entree Zach chose fish and chips (he’s been craving it for a while).  The kennebec fries are hand cut in house, and the tartar sauce, also scratch made, includes pickles that Yankee Pier pickles themselves!  The pickling spices come through to make this one special tartar sauce.  It needs to be special, though, to match the quality of the fish.  Moist, tender, and meaty, these three hunks of hand cut rockfish with Fish Story Ale beer batter were fresh and delicious.

dungeness crab roll

dungeness crab roll

We didn’t know this until we were seated, but this February is the 24th Annual Dungeness Crab Festival for the Lark Creek Restaurant Group, of which Yankee Pier is a part.  Every February they heavily feature dungeness crab on the menu, so August selected the hot crab roll.  Butter and shallots are mixed with the crab, then stuffed in a griddled brioche hot dog bun and served with kennebec kettle chips.  The naturally buttery crab is hand-picked, so the hunks are big, juicy, and tender, not finely shredded or mushed up.  Cole slaw is always good in August’s mind, but Zach agreed that the one made here is excellent.

seasonal fruit crisp - pear

seasonal fruit crisp – pear

The final element of Zach’s Twilight Menu was the seasonal fruit crisp; in season now is pear. The oatmeal crumble with cinnamon and sugar was the right amount of sweetness to set off the not-too-sweet pear, and allowing the high quality vanilla ice cream to melt just a little made it very rich and creamy.

Admittedly, the ice cream and bread are the only items not made here.  Like we said, they pickle their own pickles to make their own tartar sauce!  We like that this restaurant is so conscious towards the range of environmental risks that modern harvesting practices exacerbate.  If we all could make tiny steps towards that level of consciousness, as a world we would be in a much better place (and not just for having delicious, sustainable food!)